Japan is Waiting...

"Flight of Friendship is the first large group to visit Japan since the disaster (大震災 - daishinsai)."

Smiles at Starbucks, Oregon loves Japan!

So that's why the girls at Starbucks were so happy to see us...

This was one of the boldest statements I had heard regarding the impact of the earthquake/tsunami/nuclear disaster that hit northern Japan.  This "three-headed monster" had taken a toll none of us had really expected to have our presence validate.  Seriously, tourism in Japan had taken that much of a hit???  Our guide patiently explained that the disaster did not just impact tourism in northern Japan, it affected tourism everywhere in Japan.

Imagine if the impacts of Katrina in New Orleans and the Gulf Coast had impacted everyone's image of the United States and all tourism to New York, California, Las Vegas had ground to a halt.  Tough to imagine, isn't it?  But that is what is happening here, and the lot of us could do nothing but shake our heads.  Kyoto, Hiroshima, Miyajima, Nagano...  We are sorry...

And so we woke up to our first full day in Japan.  85 travelers from the US received the following treatment which can only be described as: historic, never freaking happening again, momentous, heartfelt, すごい (sugoi):

Thanks you Commander Freeman
(resident of WA!)

• No Expectations: We stepped off the bus and climb the eight flights of stairs with no other thought than that we had woken up in Japan.  As we assembled in a well-monitored room, the US Ambassador to Japan (Ambassador John Roos) stepped up the podium and gave us a reality check, proceeding to share with us first hand accounts of ground zero.  Of hugs given, of tears shed, of the personal trauma of a major earthquake in Tokyo, of the mobilization of US forces (24,000 personnel, 24 ships, 189 aircraft), of partnership with the Security Defense Forces, of accomplishment, of devastation, of inspiration.  Further first-hand accounts by Mr. John Meed, Ms. Kambara and Commander Freeman gave the group a well-rounded briefing on what to expect from the logistical to the personal.  We learned that in the eyes of children there is hope, that recovery is an attitude and that despite the loss, Japan's preparedness had potentially saved thousands of lives.  From all of us, thank you.

Fuji TV Board Room transformed
into Lunch Room

• Starry Eyes: Imagine the President and CEO of ABC or Time Warner invited you to a personal visit.  Imagine that they opened up the board room (at Fuji TV) and that president (Mr. Hieda) personally sat with you and enjoyed one of the most luxurious and decadent bento boxes ever seen (confirmed by colleagues who had lived in Japan extensively).  This just doesn't happen.  It doesn't, but it did.  The Japanese are looking for signs of hope and recovery, not just internally, but externally as well.  We are a sign, hopefully a good one, but we have punctured the dam of perception that Japan is not yet ready.  It is, it has been, let the flood begin.

• Home Away From Home: In Shiodome, a business center next to Shinbashi station (JR line), on the 42nd floor of the City Center building sits the Oregon Bar & Grill.  Views abound, a replica of the Oregon governor's office welcomes guests as they enter, Rogue Ales pour freely, Oregon Pinot Noir is showcased and the menu does its best to represent the "Slow Life" values of Oregon cuisine and culinary habits.  A fitting end to an auspicious day with live and lyrical music from Nu Shooz.  But it ain't over.  Maybe the most well-known and well-respected American Nikkei in the world crashes the party.  Senator Daniel Inouye, on his own mission to Tohoku, swung by to provide a few words of inspiration...  From the US government, way to represent...

Fuji TV's homage to "From Oregon With Love" in 

honor of the Flight of Friendship

Surreal.  Simply surreal.  And lets put this in perspective, this is by far the easiest part of the journey we are on.  From tomorrow forward it will only get more difficult.  We have been warned.  We will be tested physically, emotionally, psychologically.  We may leave wishing we could have done more but we jump in knowing we will do all we can.

Who's Got Jisaboke When We've Got Yakitori?

時差惚け　(jisaboke) - the colloquial term for "jet lag" here in Japan

"Who wants tofu salad?"

Aftermath

Three of us sat there in wide-eyed confusion at Doug.  In front of us sat a small table laden with empty wooden, sticks of all shapes and sizes, some still showing the remnants of the delicacies that were once skewered.  You see, the entire essence of "yakitori" is skewered tidbits of meet, grilled to perfection.  Tofu?  Seriously?

Neither the many empty bottles of Asahi, nor the fact we should have been asleep nor the antagonizing group of friends was any excuse...  We (Jeff, Tim and I) roiled in laughter as Doug realized that we weren't in SE Portland any more.  Next to us, somehow Loen, Sho, Nancy and Chris had found us half a mile from the hotel in a small restaurant at Shinagawa station and bore witness to the revelry.  We are off to a good start.

 

 

Yakitori as it is served.  Yum!

Personal note:  It was with great fondness that I realized as we came upon Shinagawa station that we were staying exactly where the Egusa clan had spent the final days of its first trip to Japan over three years ago.  Memories of wheeling 6 month old Kelan around and Oweghn's incredulity at the "Japanese race car taxis" made my smile even bigger.

Departure

Press Conference for Flight of Friendship

The moment is here.  Pre-boarding has started, a small, intimate reception and press conference to share the where, what and why of this trip.  The cameras roll on.

Friendly faces, some with a dazed look as many of the group have actually never been to Japan before.   High school students, nuclear engineers, city officials (Let 'er Buck!), students, artists, musicians, entrepreneurs, reporters, even an EMT and a bunch of other excited private citizens.  Getting to know people who were once strangers to me in a common venture that will create an unbreakable bond.  The anticipation we feel now will stay until we arrive in Sendai in a couple of days, and until then we will thrive on the energy of getting to know all the other personalities sitting, standing, squatting, sleeping next to each other.

Tiny origami cranes adorn everyone and everything that may help carry the message of hope in a form that the Japanese understand only too well.

There is no festive atmosphere, we realize we are doing something different, but then, that's what this region is known for and proud of.

We bring a little Portlandia, a little Vancouver, USA, a little cowboy and a lot of spirit and smiles.

And for those of you interested in the "where" I will endeavor to keep this interactive map up to date with our adventures and stories.

Final boarding now, see you in Japan.

Sean

Follow Me...

Here is a quick summary of some of the other channels of information on this expedition where you can follow along with the adventures, the experiences, the emotions.  Check back often as we may be adding some more bloggers and channels and such as the trip progresses.

Web Sites

• Flight of Friendship - Home base for those going and those interested in what they are missing.  Just the facts Jack, so if you want more, seek below...
• Map of Activities -  Interactive map of the adventures.  Do you know where Sendai is relative to Tokyo???

Facebook

• Flight of Friendship - Just getting started but watch it ramp up as the week rolls along.  Sharing the cumulative experience of the excursion's participants.
• NU SHOOZ Music - Follow John and his sketch diary of "Tiger Goes to Tokyo."
• SideStreet - Will share more in depth quips and such of the trip that are more than 140 characters but less than what the blog will cover.
• I Fly Nonstop - Dedicated to promoting the international non-stop flights out of PDX (Portland International Airport), an important partner in this excursion.

Twitter (#oregonkaraai) 

• @sidestreetmaps - Me again...
• @valerieday - "I can't wait" to hear the musical entertainment　she and John will be providing.  Wondering if Valerie will learn to play the shamisen (三味線)???
• @cinemacynic - Taking a break from sharing her perspective of the decline of cinema.

Blogs 

• Mary Loos - We have our own resident news professional!  Thank you KEX!
• Sean Egusa -  私　です！

Passport, Maps, Boots, Sports coat... Iodine???

It's amazing how things of minutia, of the most trivial detail, start to actually matter and actually provide some insight as to what the trip is all about.

1) Passport - I am going to test the bounds of the 6 month limitation of the "passport must be valid 6 months past date of entry" and am hoping I'm not left standing on the tarmac.  I will say that I've grown very fond of this particular passport as it has tracked me through my multiple visits to Japan, to China, to Europe for my 10th wedding anniversary...  Maybe its fitting that this is its last hurrah...

2) Maps - lots of maps, and I'll be turning one of them into an interactive guide of our experiences.  Seriously, for any of you who know me, would you expect any less?  For those who don't know me, I'm a map guy, love maps, think they are the coolest thing since Columbus (and am pretty sure he felt the same way).

3) Boots - The job I've volunteered for during the two full days we will be in the Sendai area require boots.  And that is exactly what I was hoping for.  I'll be out in the field with the Japanese Emergency NGO, specifically in Ishinomaki.  We had several options to choose from, including a tour that will allow some of our group to make a more immediate economic impact to the area (we hope).  Here is what we had the opportunity to choose from:

Please select the volunteer project you would prefer to participate in.
	Ishinomaki Junior High School - Cleaning of houses and drainages Approximate times 8am – 4:30pm (including one hour drive time each direction) In cooperation with JEN (Japanese Emergency NGO)
	Sendai AAR Location - Distribution of relief items Approximate times 9:30am – 6:00pm In cooperation with AAR (Association for Aid and Relief)
	Kesennuma - Assist in moving into temporary shelter Approximate times 8am – 7pm (including a couple hour drive time each direction) In cooperation with Peace Winds Japan

4) Sports coat - I'm still not sure of what the reaction is here in stateside as I've seen many who warmly and vigorously support what we are doing and others who question the motives and wonder if the timing isn't just quite right.  But if the activities on the other side of the pond are any indication, the world-renowned Japanese hospitality is going to be on overdrive.  From a welcome by the US Ambassador to Japan to a reception at Fuji TV (who originally produced the Oregon Kara Ai television series that made Oregon so well known to a generation of Japanese) to a more formal dinner and reception at the Oregon Bar and Grill (yes, you can get Rogue beer in Japan!) we are going to keep our jeans and boots packed away.  I should also mention that we will have some more formal moments in Sendai as well which I will relate later through this blog.

5) Iodine...  Oh yes, so there is this little problem with some nuclear reactors in the near vicinity...  And so one day, I look upon my desk, and sitting there is a bottle, complete with eye-dropper integrated top, of liquid iodine.  This was not something that I had thought of or had any real concern over.  And I still don't.  But I will pack this gift, an obvious manifestation of someone's concern for my well being, and for that I am grateful.  To be clear, our activity is clearly out of the zone and any volunteer activities actually take us further from the Fukushima nuclear plants.  Now if I had plans to visit Minamisoma, that might change things, but for now, I have a lot of faith in my personal safety and just want to focus on those who have lost a little faith.

I've Been There Before (A Little More History)

Minamisoma (Haramachi), Fukushima Prefecture (south of Sendai)

I've already mentioned the personal nature of this trip from a heritage perspective, but many years ago, I had the unique opportunity to help one of the larger, more renowned cities in Eastern Oregon create a sister-city relationship with an equally renowned city in northern Japan.  What did they have in common?  A rich history in horses.

Most everyone in the western US has heard of the Pendleton Round Up and recently they celebrated their 100th year, a remarkable milestone.  Haramachi (which a few years ago merged with two other townships to create the city of Minamisoma) similarly is the host of a celebrated festival of horse culture, but in place of cowboys, quarter horses and rodeos, Soma Nomaoi (wild horse riding) is a historic spectacle of the samurai culture that has been celebrated for over 1,000 years.

From chaperoning the royalty of the Pendleton Round Up court at Soma Nomaoi to watching samurai join the parade down the streets of Pendleton, the budding relationship between the two cities (facilitated by the enigmatic Mr. Uchiya) offered many memories of the people and events of the two very, very different cultures.

Riding American quarter horses in Haramachi

But that world seems so long ago when we imported quarter horses for show to Japan and had the pleasure of riding these majestic creatures on both sides of the Pacific.

I look at these old pictures now and wonder what happened to the riding corrals, what has happened to the many people I worked with.  Is Mr. Endo still leading the city council?  I certainly hope so.

But then I came across a picture that dragged me back to a memory of a chilly, overcast and windy day on the coast of Japan, standing atop a seawall that seemed to dominate the coastline in every direction.  It's like that picture of my wife and I standing on top of the World Trade Center so many years ago.   The imagination can not even fathom what reality wrought... and so I head west to the far east.

Standing on the eastern shores of northern Japan in Minamisoma (Haramachi)

Japan's Ground Zero

I'm going to take this opportunity to remind everyone of what happened and, to the extent possible, the immediate impacts to Japan and the local communities hit hardest.

Here is an excerpt from a report prepared by the Baptist Global Response days after the event (full report can be read here):

1. Major event – 9.0 magnitude earthquake (Fifth largest since 1900)
2. Secondary major event – Resulting tsunami
3. Tertiary major event – Radiation hazard from damaged nuclear power plants
4. Statistics/Numbers of interest as of 20 March, 2011:

• 8,199 people confirmed dead and 12,722 officially mission (total dead + missing = 20,921)
• Myagi prefecture hardest hit. Confirmed dead = 4,882 but authorities belief this number will rise above 15,000.
• There are currently 367,141 people living in 2,300 evacuation centers. About 10,000 per day are returning to their areas as power/water is being restored.
• Already 21,000 people have relocated to other areas of the country living in secondary places such as with family, friends, vacation houses, etc.
• Government has initiated rebuilding of 30,000 homes. Standard specs are 30 square meters and about $30,000 per house.

Source: UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs

To quickly restate what had just happened, two major natural disasters complicated by a man-made disaster combined to create a situation the world had never seen before.  The following picture shows the geographic scale of the area most impacted by these events.  (Download this map here).

The Japanese knew that such an event was imminent.  They had warning systems in place, sea walls designed to stave off the brunt of mother nature, engineering designs to mitigate the effects of a major earthquake.

Tsunami waves hit residences in Natori, Miyagi prefecture.

But you can't predict mother nature, and the combination of these two natural disasters demonstrated that for all humanities intelligence and capabilities, the raw power of mother nature is difficult to predict and contain. They had practiced and what little preparation and training had taken place allowed most of the area's population to react and evacuate within the 20 to 25 minutes between the earthquake and first waves of the tsunami.  Think about that...  You get rocked off your feet and 20 minutes later a 30-40 foot wall of sea water takes out your village.




So all of these leads to one of the most telling videos from this event.  A small town, somewhat prepared (see everyone at high ground, cameras rolling) as the first waves enter the city streets and townspeople witness a nightmare in the middle of their day.  Watch as the world that they knew ends...  is washed away in moments...  This is what we are heading into.  Obviously not the day after, but I was at ground zero for the World Trade Center in December 2011 and three months later the pile still smoldered and it was obvious that the recovery had only just begun.

I am hoping we can contribute to the recovery of this region in any way we can.

Sean

Is there something we can do???

As I start this first entry, there are a few things that I want to get out of the way.

I think most people who know me understand my love and appreciation of my Japanese heritage and a bit about the journey it has taken me to get to where I am today. I have had the good fortune of working in scenarios that have involved extensive travel to Japan where I have deepened those feelings and made many good friends along the way. And just as fortunately I have been able to become part of a community that values this heritage, through respect, through friendship and through blood.

And so it was that my heart and a bit of my soul sank on March 11, 2011.

Like everyone else, I'm sure the footage of the Pacific ocean surging 10 kilometers over the fertile, populated lands of northern Japan was surreal and something out of Hollywood. But we all soon realized that the "shock and awe" campaign Mother Nature provided, and the devastation she left behind was real.

It was real.

Since then, I've donated, I've joined fund raisers, encouraged our son to bring donations in the form of coins to his school, but in the back of my mind I kept waiting for something else, something a bit more personal to allow me to give back, if just only a little bit...


And so it was with a muted, tenuous joy that I received word of Sho Dozono and Azumano's Flight of Friendship. To me, the stars had aligned, the kharma wheel was spinning in askance and giving me the opportunity I had been silently longing for. To erase all doubts, a timely phone call from a well-respected leader of the community provided further inspiration and sealed the deal.

And so I head back to the homeland, to see if we can lift sodden and shaken spirits and replace some despair with a little hope.

The world moves so fast and it is so easy to forget what happened yesterday, so it is also my hope that we can help remind others that this fight is not yet over and to assure those in the greater Sendai area that they are not forgotten.

I will use this channel as an opportunity to share the experience as well as to respond to the many questions and comments I am hoping the group receives. I will entertain questions and comments on SideStreet's Facebook page and Twitter feed　 and try to respond to them here.

Wish us luck and if you have any hope or well wishes you would like us to take over, let us know.

Cheers,

Sean 江草